Yamas!
- Delayne Martin
- Jul 3
- 3 min read
Crete boasts a wide variety of wine grapes native to the island, alongside international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. The island enjoys a Mediterranean climate, characterized by long, dry summers and mild, wet winters. Snow can be seen at higher elevations in the mountains, visible from the ocean. Crete stretches from east to west, with mountains running through its center. The most notable white grape varieties include Vidiano, Assyrtiko, and Muscat of Spina, while the key red grapes are Kotsifali and Romeiko. Although some names may be challenging to pronounce, these are a few worth remembering.
Following a restful night's sleep and a run along the Sea of Crete, we indulged in an extraordinary breakfast buffet. Before embarking on this trip, we had reached out to a local winery to secure a tasting reservation. After breakfast, we traveled to Klados Winery, a small, family-owned establishment located about 30 minutes from Rethymno. We recommend emailing the winery to arrange a reservation. We met the owner and winemaker, Stellos, and were treated to a tour of the winery, sampling their collection of eight wines. Tastings were conducted at our table, allowing us to savor each wine at our own pace. We chose the cheese plate, underestimating the generous portion sizes. It was our first experience with rusks, which are similar in size to croutons and are twice-baked bread. These are commonly served everywhere. Historically, they were baked twice to extend their shelf life. By the time we left, the winery had become quite busy. We particularly enjoyed their Black Bird, a rosé made entirely from Kotsifali grapes. Kotsifali grapes yield a dry red wine with soft tannins. I must confess, we enjoyed several bottles of this wine throughout the week, as it was readily available in restaurants and markets.
During the week, we explored the Minoan ruins in Heraklion, the fortress in Rethymno, and went shopping in Chania. In Crete, mealtimes offer two choices: a quick bite or a leisurely meal that lasts for hours. There were few options in between. After a morning of sightseeing, we often opted for a long lunch with appetizers, fresh seafood, and wine, which was a perfect way to escape the midafternoon heat. Dinners generally started later and were also relaxed events, with food and wine flowing continuously. In Crete, most menus are available in both English and Greek, and most people spoke enough English to communicate easily.
My favorite meal was the authentic Cretan dinner and dance show at Spiti tou Poliou (Poliou House) in the village of Asteri. This weekly celebration of Cretan culture was an unforgettable experience, and I’m thrilled we had the chance to be part of it. The meal was served family-style, with wine flowing freely throughout the evening. The dancers encouraged guests to join in, and we were lucky to learn a few traditional Cretan dance steps. The musicians performed classic Greek songs—while we couldn’t understand the lyrics, the rhythm and energy were unmistakable.
On our final full day, we chose to revisit the old town of Rethymno. We participated in a wine tasting at Sella Veneria with a sommelier named Nicoli, who guided us through five Greek wines. We spent the afternoon discussing the future of Cretan wine. According to Nicoli, the industry is shifting from high-volume commercial production to more local, boutique-style winemaking—a change he sees as a positive development.
On our way to the airport for our flight to Paris, we hired a driver who took us to visit Dourakis Winery. This family-owned boutique winery is nestled in the mountains of Apokoronas, just a 20-minute drive from Rethymno. The outdoor tasting area reflected classic Mediterranean style, with live foliage overhead providing natural shade. We enjoyed another tour—this time through a wine cellar located in an actual underground cave. As a special treat, we had the opportunity to meet the winery’s founder, Andreas Dourakis, a warm and engaging man whose passion for producing quality wine was truly inspiring. Unfortunately, our visit had to end, and it was time to catch our flight to Paris.
Yamas! Until we meet again Crete.
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